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 Entertainment | Restaurants & Dining | April 2005 
Quesadillas 'De La Señora' In Your Kitchen
 Vicky Cowal - The Herald Mexico
| Depending on how many you eat, they either fill the need for a complete meal or for what will tide you over.
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If you are like me, you might just get a sudden giant craving for a quesadilla, preferably made by the hard-working woman at the corner of your street. No, you don't want the already made one sitting forlornly at the corner of her grill. You want her to make it from scratch so that it's fresh and captures all the best flavor of the ingredients. You hope that she has a good variety of salsas to go with whatever filling you have chosen and for a few pesos you can eat right by her stand, dripping juices over your plastic plate. You and your stomach will be most satisfied.
I lived for many years in a section of Mexico City called the Colonia Cuauhtémoc where there is such an abundance of quesadilla stands that it was hard to choose among them. Of course, my family and I all had our favorites. Because we were known, the proprietresses would make them exactly to order. "A little extra cheese, joven?" "A filling that is especially good today, güerita?" "A salsa that is hot, but won't burn the roof off your mouth, señora?".
However there are few areas in Mexico where you will have to go far to find good quesadillas. They are so popular that the stands seem to spring up from nowhere. Depending on how many you eat, they either fill the need for a complete meal or for what will tide you over.
But perhaps you are a little leery of eating from the street and would like to make your own quesadillas. Why not? Little is required and they are good at any time of the day. The only stipulation is that they be eaten as soon as they are made. Cold or warmed up ones just don't make it.
Most of the quesadillas we eat at home in Mexico are made from already made tortillas, either corn or flour. All you do is fold the tortillas over the filling, either grill or fry them, and voila an instant snack or meal. But, while it is a bit more work, an authentic quesadilla is prepared with masa, the dough from which the corn tortilla is made. If you are in Mexico, it is a very simple proposition to go to a tortilleria and buy a kilo or two of masa. Each kilo will be enough for about 12 tortillas. Or you may make your own masa from the corn flour known as Maseca. Just follow the directions on the package.
You will also need a tortilla press, available at any public or street market. (It is possible to make tortillas completely by hand, but you kind of have to grow up doing it). A bit of waxed paper or plastic wrap to keep the dough from sticking to the press and you are on your way. You may need a little practice to get the hang of it, but it's fun and far from an impossible proposition. Besides, everyone will love the results.
Put the masa in a bowl and add a tablespoon or two of flour, about 1/2 teaspoon of salt, and a tablespoon of melted lard, which adds flavor and makes the dough easier to work. (If you object to lard, you can use vegetable oil.) Wet your hands with water and knead the dough for about 5 minutes. Let rest for 15 minutes, covered with a damp cloth.
Divide the dough into 12 balls. Place a piece of waxed paper or plastic wrap on the bottom half of the tortilla press. Place the ball of dough in the center, flattening it slightly and then cover with another piece of paper or wrap. Press lightly down on the dough to form the tortillas. Remove the paper or wrap from the top of the tortilla. Place a spoonful of filling in the center of each tortilla and fold the tortilla in half. Remove the plastic from the bottom and press the edges of the quesadilla together with a fork to seal. Continue until all the masa is used up.
In a large skillet, heat about an inch of oil and fry the quesadillas, a single layer at a time, for a few minutes on each side, until lightly browned. Push them apart if they start to stick together. Drain well on plenty of paper toweling. Eat immediately.
Quesadillas can be filled with just about anything you like. The recipes I have included are traditional, but use your imagination and follow your own tastes. Last week I went to a new restaurant where they served quesadillas filled with grilled shrimp and slices of avocado and topped with a black bean salsa. Delicious.
In all the recipes, the filling is enough for about 12 quesadillas.
CHEESE FILLING
- 2 cups grated Manchego or Oaxaca cheese (can use Monterrey Jack).
- 12 epazote leaves (optional but give great flavor).
Place a handful of cheese and an epazote leaf in each quesadilla. Fold in half and cook.
POTATO AND CHORIZO FILLING
- 3 large white potatoes, peeled and cubed (about 1 pound).
- 1 tablespoon oil.
- 1 small white onion, chopped fine.
- 2 chorizos, casing removed and crumbled.
- Salt and pepper, to taste.
Cook the potatoes in plenty of lightly salted water until they are tender. Drain well.
In a medium-size skillet heat the oil over medium heat and cook the onion for about 5 minutes. Remove from the skillet, set aside and cook the chorizos for about 10 minutes until the meat is slightly browned. Add the potatoes and onions, season to taste and cook for several minutes. Place a spoonful in each quesadilla and fold over. Fry in oil until lightly browned on both sides.
CHILE POBLANO FILLING
- 2 tablespoons oil.
- 1 large white onion, cut in slivers.
- 6 poblano chilies, blistered, seeded and cut in thin strips.
- Salt to taste.
- 1/4 pound grated mild melting cheese.
In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium heat and gently fry the onions for 5 minutes. Add the chilies, season with salt and cook for another 8 to 10 minutes. Add the cheese and cook until it is melted. Place a spoonful of filling down the center of each quesadilla, fold over and cook.
Vicky Cowal is a weekly contributor to The Herald. VickyCowal@prodigy.net.mx |
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