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 Entertainment | Books | May 2005 
Hiking Tips From Author Of Alternative Travel Guide
 Barbara Kastelein - The Herald Mexico
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A new version of the acclaimed guide to Mexico City and around will go on sale this fall. Marketed as "the cure for the common trip," Moon Handbooks distinguish themselves from other guidebooks by offering more than the standard itinerary and aiming to give readers the tools they need to make their own choices and create a personal travel strategy that reflects their own tastes.
The Mexico City guide in particular is treasured by travelers for its alternative destinations, friendly tone and surprising, off-the-beaten-track tips. It is one of the few guides to include really low-budget hotels and has a gritty component that helps depict the Mexico that more adventurous visitors are likely to find, making a refreshing contrast to the staged gloss of travel brochures.
Author Chris Humphrey, a veteran volcano climber and rare balneario seeker, was asked by The Herald for his top suggestions for hiking around Mexico City, and he shared some observations on safety: "One of the best and closest places to hike is San Nicolás Totoloapan, a park near Ajusco, in mountains south of the city. The land is owned collectively by a local community which has built a network of trails through the forests. The mountain goes up as high as 3,700 meters, so you'll find plenty of trails to tire yourself out, some for walking, and others used by mountain bikers."
While Humphrey also enjoys the nearby peak of Ajusco which he describes as "a good climb that you can do in a couple of hours if you can handle the altitude (3,900 meters)," he points out there have been some robberies there, and San Nicolás is a safer option as the trails are patrolled by community guards.
SEEKING TRANQUILITY
He also recommends the Parque Nacional Desierto los Leones, which is further north and west in the same range of mountains. It can be reached by car from either from San Angel or from the highway exit to Toluca.
"The park is named after a beautiful 18th-century monastery (Desierto ) set in the forest, which is a protected monument. It's a tranquil place to stroll around, especially if you come during the week when there aren't many people around. After walking around the monastery, you can rent horses or walk along the trails that lead further up the mountain, past a ranger station known as Cruz Blanca." However, Humphrey again notes that it's best not to go all the way to the top of the mountain, given robberies have been reported in the past but reassures hikers that the area around the monastery and Cruz Blanca is very safe.
ROCK CLIMBING OPTION
His third recommendation is Parque Nacional El Chico, near the city of Pachuca, northeast of Mexico City. "From downtown Mexico City you can get to the park in about two hours, depending on how the traffic is getting out of town," Humphrey says. "The park is a broad highland area covered with pine trees, meadows, and a few small lakes. If you like rock climbing this is a great place to go, there are dozens of bolted routes, some over 100 meters long. But most people are content with just strolling around and enjoying the views and clean air. There's plenty of places to pitch a tent for a few pesos, if you like to camp. The village of Mineral del Chico, inside the park limits, is worth a visit too, a sleepy old mining town perched on the edge of the mountainside."
FOR AN ALTITUDE FIX
Nevado de Toluca, a couple of hours' west of Mexico City, is one of the easiest places Humphrey recommends to readers who want to get up above 4,000 meters. A dirt road goes all the way into the crater, which has two little lakes in the middle. From the crater, the adventurous can hike up the sides of the crater wall for some fantastic views, weather permitting.
"Be ready for the high altitude," Humphrey cautions, "and also for sudden changes in weather. It's possible to hike all the way around the crater rim (it goes as high as 4,600 meters) in about 3 or 4 hours, but it's precarious in places and definitely not for the faint of heart. If you're a little nuts like me! you can hike part way around, and then scree slide down a likely looking chute all the way down to the crater floor in record time."
REGARDING SAFETY
Humphrey says, "the most important thing is not to hike in areas where no one else is. The unfortunate reality is that there's a lot of crime in Mexico, and not just in Mexico City. All the places I mentioned are very safe for tourists, and you should feel at ease and enjoy yourself. But if you venture further afield, it's always best to stick to places where you see other people. It's also a good idea if you want to head off into an unknown area to ask local people about the safety of an area."
There are natural hazards to watch out for as well, such as altitude ("drinking lots of water helps, but if you really start to feel bad, it's best to simply go back downhill") and sun. "If you go above the treeline, be aware of changing weather and come prepared for rain, even if it's sunny when you head out."
Further information on the above destinations and many more, is available in the new edition of "Moon Handbooks: Mexico City," which will be available online and at various bookstores in the capital this fall. Humphrey tries to keep safety issues right up front in discussions on where to go and how to get there.
Barbara Kastelein writes a weekly column on travel for The Herald. sirio@data.net.mx |
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