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 Entertainment | August 2007 
Guadalajara: Mariachi Mania
 Christine Delsol - SF Gate
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One of the most important cultural events of the year in Guadalajara, crucible of Mexico's mariachi tradition, is the International Mariachi and Charro Festival, Aug. 30–Sept. 9. And with a history inextricably tied to Spanish conquest and revolt, mariachi's themes of love, death, politics and revolutionary heroes set a fitting mood in the days leading up to the nation's Sept. 16 Independence Day celebrations. (You did know that Cinco de Mayo isn't independence day, right?)
The guitars, violins, harps and vihuelas (a five-string guitar of 16th-century origin) originally used by the mariachi were introduced by the Spaniards. Intended for the celebration of Mass, the instruments were appropriated for popular music that spread satirical and anticlerical messages. Criollos (Mexicans of Spanish descent) in the 19th century, bent on eradicating every trace of Spanish colonial presence, supported the mariachis and often employed them on their haciendas. When the hacienda system collapsed after the revolution, the mariachis took their show on the road, singing of machismo, betrayal and rebellion while carrying news from town to town.
When mariachis began playing in public for a fee in the early 1900s, one of their most popular venues was San Pedro Tlaquepaque, a summer retreat for fashionable Guadalajarans. The music spread across the country, but mariachis from Jalisco state remained the most in demand. With the advent of radio and television, mariachis were paired with Jorge Negrete, Pedro Infante and other famous singers. The influence of jazz and Cuban music brought the trumpet into the mix, pushing the strings into a secondary role.
This year's celebration, bringing dozens of mariachi bands from around the world to march through the streets of Guadalajara and perform in the Teatro Degollado, is dedicated to the revered Pedro Infante. The festival also stages an elaborate parade, dinners, outdoor concerts, music workshops and arts and crafts exhibits. More info: www.mariachi-jalisco.com.mx (in Spanish).
Christine Delsol is a freelance writer and former Deputy Travel Editor at the San Francisco Chronicle. Email her at christinedelsol@earthlink.net. |
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