Let's Get Pacific
 Julie Earle-Levine - New York Post
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| | Learn to surf in Sayulita with your friendly instructor, "Tigre" Cadena. |
"Just call me Tiger. Like the cat." My surf instructor, Guillermo "Tigre" Cadena, grins widely before turning to survey the rolling waves lapping against a stunning, golden beach.
"Look at that! It's so beautiful! Here we come!"
And there we go.
Tigre is a former international surfing champ, and he's helping me brush up on my skills, here in the easy-going village of Sayulita, Mexico. He will later prove invaluable as a source on where to find the best tacos.
There are many agreeable little coastal towns on Mexico's Pacific Coast. Few can say they are next door to a Four Seasons resort, or, for that matter, a villa where Beyoncé is staying.
Sayulita can. It is located just a few minutes' drive north of Punta Mita, the famous (and famously exclusive) luxury community near Puerto Vallarta that was designed to lure the high-end traveler to the region.
It seems to be working: At the Four Seasons, you can currently book a one-bedroom suite with a garden view for $1,025 a night. Over the holidays, you'll pay close to $2,000.
At the Villa Amor, located on the beach in Sayulita, an oceanfront one-bedroom currently starts at $88 per night, rising to a prohibitive $123 over Christmas.
Sure, your suite at the Four Seasons would feature a private plunge pool, but at Villa Amor, Sayulita Bay is yours to plunge into, anytime you like.
As you'd expect in a small town, the vibe here is relaxed. Dogs, cats and chickens roam free and everyone, even the locals, seem to be on holiday.
Experienced surfers and novices alike flock here to soak up the local culture.
Greg Shove, founder and CEO of luxury vacation real estate guide the Helium Report, found his way to Sayulita four years ago. He generally considers himself a luxury traveler. But at least once a year, he makes time to go to Sayulita with family and friends.
"We love the atmosphere, the warm water, great surfing and fresh food," said Shove, whose family learned to surf there. Sayulita is renowned for surfing, but there is enough in town to keep you happy beyond catching waves.
Quick, so you can walk again, go to Nicole Brandt, a Texan transplant, who does deep-tissue massages in a private palapa studio on the beach for $50 to $75/hour.
Check out Pachamama for cool clothes and jewelry (it's the red building with the green door and thatched roof, near the beach). Natalie and Lawrence Mignot design everything in the shop from brightly colored, hand-embroidered pillows to black Tahitian pearl necklaces on a leather cord.
For art, go to the Clay Brom Gallery. He does metal sculpture and lamps, tables and chairs, plus cool outdoor pieces for the garden. La Hamaca has locally made Mexican art and pottery. There is a bookstore in town, Libreria Sayulita, with English and Spanish titles, and daily Spanish-language classes.
For fresh salads and delicious smoothies, go to Break Fast, on the main beach in town. Don Pedro's, a two-story palapa also on the beach, serves seafood. "After too many margaritas, Don Pedro's is great for salsa dancing," says Cudenas.
Don't miss Choco Banana, opposite the town square where the owner dishes up frozen bananas dipped in yummy chocolate (get it sprinkled with fresh coconut flakes) to a bohemian crowd who look like they just tumbled out of bed, or out of the surf.
Sayulita Fish Tacos in town square serves up the Baja fish taco, while the best pork and chicken tamales are delivered to many of the rental properties by the "tamale lady" every day. Nearby, the Sayulita café serves excellent chile rellenos, with shrimp or chicken.
At the just-opened Buddha Bar (nothing to do with the Paris or New York hotspots) right behind Don Pedro's, a neon pink Buddha welcomes diners. Locals, surfers and tourists come together for live music after 10 p.m., and earlier for delicious Thai cuisine (fish cakes, si).
When it comes to bedding down, you've got options.
While there's plenty of affordable lodging, those desiring amenities like heated Infinity pools and staff will find that they are easily accommodated, but at far more reasonable prices than further down the street.
For example, Les Oiseaux Volants (The Flying Birds) is a stunning villa with views of the surf break, so you can check out the waves before you even leave home. A seven-bedroom house with three bathrooms, right above Pachamama, is roomy with large open decks for sunbathing. At night, the terraces are perfect for margaritas and watching the sun sink into the sea.
Designed by the Mignots, The Flying Birds has three staffers who will cook two meals a day, and clean.
The cost is $1,200 a night - a little more than that one-bedroom at the Four Seasons, sure, but in a refreshing twist, great value for money.
LOWDOWN
GO: Continental operates regular non-stop flights from Newark to Puerto Vallarta (continental.com). Sayulita is a 35-minute taxi ride from the airport.
STAY: Villa Amor (at right)offers great views (from $88; villaamor.com). For info on renting the Flying Birds villa, log on to lesgazelles.com.
INFO: sayulita.com |
Vallarta Weddings
Travel & Outdoors | September 2007 
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