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The Thousand Flavors of Mole
 VisitMexico.com
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November 18, 2010
 They say there are more than 300 varieties of mole, almost as many as there are types of cuisine in Mexico. This route travels through the states of Tlaxcala, Puebla and Oaxaca, three destinations that compete in claiming the creation of this exceptional dish.
The tour includes a taste in the best restaurants, trips through the most splendid natural landscapes and a visit to the archaeological sites in Oaxaca. The only thing you need is a fork in your hand (or a spoon if you are very hungry), and a pair of rested eyes to enjoy the whole way.
Destinations that make up the Route
CIUDAD DE MÉXICO
For most people, Mexico City is an end in itself, but from another point of view, it is also a starting point: from here, you can begin almost any tour – gastronomic, archaeological, architectural, etc. – or establish a base from where you set out on longer travels to other parts of the Republic. It goes without saying that this mega-metropolis has everything, for every taste; you just need to have a clear navigating plan to sail through it without getting lost, or at least, to do the latter in style.
SAN PEDRO ATOCPAN
This place did not become famous because it is part of Milpa Alta, but because it is the gastronomic sanctuary that hosts the Feria Nacional del Mole (National Mole Fair) every year. During this celebration, locals and guests celebrate the existence of this elaborate concoction, but specifically that of the local mole: the almendrado (prepared with almonds). During the festivities, visitors can try all the recipes available and buy some to take home, enjoy the palenque and various traditional shows, like Papantla’s voladores (flying men).
TLAXCALA
In the discreet but very beautiful capital of the state of Tlaxcala, travelers can enjoy a relaxed Colonial ambiance, with gastronomy that rescues the best from the land: corn, nopal (cactus), green tomatoes and species from the region are the basis of a series of dishes whose only theme in common is that they could all appear in a Mexican recipe book: escamoles, huitlacoche, mixiotes, barbacoa, quesadillas, and naturally, mole for festive days (all this accompanied by delicious freshly-made tortillas).
PUEBLA
Among Colonial buildings, boutique hotels and churches (so many that they have lost count), Puebla vibrates thanks to its cultural, artistic and commercial life. The birthplace of mole (or at least one of them) offers the traveler a large number of restaurants where to taste it; and also, the incomparable chiles en nogada (a stuffed chili covered in cashew sauce, another dish that is registered by the city). Before you leave, you must visit the Barrio del Artista, the workshops, shops and restaurants at Container City, in Cholula, and naturally, the former Santa Rosa convent.
OAXACA
If you want to have delicious meals, you must travel to Oaxaca. In general, the plan includes having a large breakfast at 20 de Noviembre Market and lunch at one of the restaurants downtown that serve Oaxacan food. Between each meal, a stroll around the streets in the historical center is both relaxing and inspiring (as long as it is not the middle of summer). You can’t miss a visit to the former convent of Santo Domingo, the Artes Gráficas Museum (graphic arts) and the Arte Contemporáneo Museum (contemporary art).
MONTE ALBAN – MITLA
The archaeological sites of Monte Albán and Mitla are two mandatory trips during a stay in Oaxaca. Although their original structures have suffered changes caused by the passage of time, in both of them you can see the foundations and bases of the original constructions. The first is only 10 km away from the city of Oaxaca, and for a very long time, it was the most powerful center in the region. The second, which is 40 km away, was the center of Zapotec power, once Monte Albán fell into decadence.
HUATULCO
If the idea is spending time like an iguana sunbathing for days, any Mexican beach is a good destination. But if the traveler also wants to undertake other activities such as golfing, visiting seven different bays, diving in the clearest of waters or rafting in a local river, then the place to go is Huatulco. Nature explodes in every corner of this coast; the food, especially seafood, is fresh and delicious; and the ambiance is relaxed and bohemian.
MAZUNTE
The term eco-chic never made so much sense as in Mazunte. The sea’s various blue tones and the jungle that covers the hills are the perfect scenario for the elegant and small cabins or the various small Mexican and French gastronomy restaurants that serve the best food in the area. In addition to resting in the sun, it is possible to watch turtles laying their eggs in the Centro Mexicano de la Tortuga (Mexican Turtle Center), visit the community in Ventanilla or leave your prejudices and insecurities behind by spending a day at Zipolite beach.
CACAXTLA
Cacaxtla is a well-known archaeological site in Tlaxcala, but beyond architecture, its attraction is wall paintings: one of the few Pre-Hispanic murals that have survived until our day. The challenge for archaeologists in this site has been to find a way of preserving the original paintings from natural deterioration (rain and air in themselves represent a threat), and this is why large metal roofs have been placed over the site to protect it from the elements.
• • •
Distrito Federal
Su capital es una de las ciudades más importantes del país, cuyas construcciones coloniales dejan aturdido por su belleza. Pero la pluralidad del estado es lo realmente impresionante: desde lo verde de la Huasteca —donde se encuentran las indescriptibles construcciones del surrealista sir Edward James— hasta el silencio de su desierto, famoso por Real de Catorce, un destino otrora minero y hoy turístico que ha sido visitado por personalidades como Jim Morrison o Enrique Bunbury.
Tlaxcala
In the discreet but very beautiful capital of the state of Tlaxcala, travelers can enjoy a relaxed Colonial ambiance, with gastronomy that rescues the best from the land: corn, nopal (cactus), green tomatoes and species from the region are the basis of a series of dishes whose only theme in common is that they could all appear in a Mexican recipe book: escamoles, huitlacoche, mixiotes, barbacoa, quesadillas, and naturally, mole for festive days (all this accompanied by delicious freshly-made tortillas).
Puebla
Among Colonial buildings, boutique hotels and churches (so many that they have lost count), Puebla vibrates thanks to its cultural, artistic and commercial life. The birthplace of mole (or at least one of them) offers the traveler a large number of restaurants where to taste it; and also, the incomparable chiles en nogada (a stuffed chili covered in cashew sauce, another dish that is registered by the city). Before you leave, you must visit the Barrio del Artista, the workshops, shops and restaurants at Container City, in Cholula, and naturally, the former Santa Rosa convent.
Oaxaca
“You’re going to have some amazing meals” is the first thing you hear when plan on travelling to Oaxaca, and then the endless suggestions of restaurants, markets and diners where you can try the best black mole, the crunchiest chapulines (edible crickets) or the biggest tlayudas. Much later, you will hear suggestions about visiting the archaeological sites of Monte Albán and Mitla, the central valley towns where you can purchase handicrafts, the southern beaches where you can catch the best waves for surfing, and art galleries in the capital.
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