Puerto Vallarta, Mexico - On the Malecón, Puerto Vallarta’s lively oceanfront promenade, a crowd gathers to watch the voladores (fliers) in action. A drum beats dramatically as four young men in native costume, ropes attached to their waists, drop head first from the top of a 100-foot column. Orbiting the pole in widening circles as the ropes unwind, they spiral down gradually, gracefully, performing a rite that predates Columbus. Meanwhile, in the background, their modern counterparts — parasailers pulled by motorboats — float above the sea like human kites.

The scene is classic Puerto Vallarta — a mix of tradition and tourism, recreation and spectacle, nature and artifice. That distinctive blend helps explain how, over decades of growth, this Pacific playground has managed to remain one of Mexico’s top destinations. It’s renowned for resorts that conjure tropical fantasies, but Puerto Vallarta is also blessed with a warmly amiable local population.

Its biggest asset is the spectacular setting, between lofty, jungle-clad mountains and horseshoe-shaped Banderas Bay. The shoreline of one of Mexico’s largest bays has absorbed waves of development — high-rise hotels, luxury villas, golf courses, marinas — yet, with about 60 miles of shoreline (half of it beach), the bay still harbors secluded coves and sleepy villages where fishermen beach their pangas to bring in the day’s catch. With an average depth of 1,000 feet, the bay also has ample room for visiting humpback whales and other marine life.

Puerto Vallarta’s diversity of options for accommodations and adventure allows it to cater to every kind of traveler. Whatever you’ve dreamed of doing on a Mexican getaway, you can find it here. Take a water taxi to play castaway for a day on a beach past the reach of any road. Party with the cool crowd on a dance floor pulsing with big-city beats.

Swoop through the jungle on a zip line. Surf or scuba dive (or learn how). Take a jeep safari or ride a horse into the Sierra Madre foothills. Savor refined Mexican dishes (and many international flavors) in elegant restaurants.

Feast on marlin tacos and chilled cerveza in a seaside palapa (thatched-roof) eatery. Go on a whale-watching or sunset cocktail cruise. Yes, these are all very touristy things to do — but also undeniably great fun.

Of course, you might be happy to cocoon at a carefree resort, perhaps echoing the torrid romance between Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton, who first put Puerto Vallarta on the map in the early 1960s when Burton was here filming The Night of the Iguana.

Once you’re rested, head into town to explore the shops, galleries, and restaurants that line the cobblestone streets. Stroll along the Rio Cuale and the mile-long Malecón, adorned with fanciful sculptures. Visit the city’s favorite landmark, the church of Our Lady of Guadalupe, known for its sonorous bells and queenly metal crown. And explore Marina Vallarta and Nuevo Vallarta, north-of-town developments that offer golf, sport-fishing charters, and more hotels, shops, and restaurants.

Be sure to stop in the galleries, where you can find stunning works of yarn and bead art created by the Huichol Indians in the nearby Sierra Madre. Also known as the “peyote people,” the Huichol make use of a twisting blend of bold colors that long predates the American notion of psychedelic art.

It’s easy to get out of town for a memorable day trip — or something more. Banderas Bay’s south shore has quiet beaches accessible not by road, but by water taxi or tour boat. Getting to them feels like an escape — think Gilligan’s Island, only you won’t be left stranded.

Las Animas, Quimixto, Majahuitas, and Yelapa are all idyllic places to swim, snorkel, hike a jungle path, or dine in a beachfront restaurant. The latter two have overnight lodging, including boutique hotels made more romantic by their isolation.

Yelapa, a tiny village near the mouth of the bay, takes longer to reach but boasts a waterfall hike and the famous Pie Lady of Yelapa, who carries her wares in a Tupperware container balanced on her head. If this unusual sight tempts you to buy a slice, don’t hesitate — her pies are delicious.

Both north and south of Puerto Vallarta, the road leads to laid-back communities and some of Mexico’s most fabuloso resorts. Vallartans make the short drive north to Bucerías for uncrowded playas and beachfront palapa restaurants serving everything from fresh oysters to pizza (you can get there by taxi, bus, or rental car.)

Past Bucerías, turn off the highway and follow the coastal road. You’ll pass more sand-and-seafood hot spots, like the simpatico beach at Destiladeras, before reaching Punta Mita, an enclave of splashy villas and swanky (Four Seasons, St. Regis) hotels. For contrast, continue on to Sayulita (about 30 miles north of Puerto Vallarta,) a favorite surfing spot. Though it has enough cosmopolitan expats and visitors to support a sushi bar and an Italian bakery, Sayulita is still a mellow Mexican fishing village.

South of Puerto Vallarta lies the Costa Alegre, where dense jungle yields to tiny settlements and chic retreats. At posh resorts, such as Las Alamandas, you may wonder if the group at the next table consists of fashion models, real estate moguls, and pro polo players. In fact, there would be a good chance that your suspicion is right on.

Puerto Vallarta keeps adding to its list of attractions. It boasts more than 200 restaurants and countless diversions: eco-adventures in the wild, nightclubs where spring break never ends, the 12-day December fiesta honoring the Virgin of Guadalupe, and a thriving arts scene fueled by artists inspired to capture local color on canvas.

The sun shines over 300 days of the year and the people are friendly. No wonder the number of Yanks who’ve bought vacation or retirement homes here is large and growing. Considering its location in the state of Jalisco (the cradle of tequila,) its balmy climate, and its easygoing way of life, Puerto Vallarta may well be the ultimate Margaritaville.

Stay in Style

Visitors will find many large-scale hotels, as well as more intimate properties like the following:

A walled oasis with a refined restaurant and superb views, Hacienda San Angel is Puerto Vallarta’s best boutique hotel.

Centrally located Casa Amorita, a boutique bed and breakfast, offers five ocean-view rooms, with a rooftop terrace bar and lush broadleaf tropical foliage gracing the grounds.

On the beach just south of town, the Quinta Maria Cortez offers seven beachfront suites with a pool.

For that shipwrecked-in-paradise feeling, opt for one of eight suites at Verana in remote Yelapa (no TV or phones, but pool, spa, yoga, and well-crafted cuisine using local ingredients.)

Great Local Flavors

Banderas Bay is full of good (and cheap) palapa beach eateries. But there’s much more to savor in a town with one of Mexico’s most diverse dining scenes.

El Arrayan has a cozy atmosphere and award-winning Mexican food (try the duck carnitas.)

Barcelona Tapas features traditional Spanish tapas and a rooftop patio with an alluring bay view.

Long one of the city’s best restaurants, Cafe des Artistes offers an exquisite French menu and a romantic garden setting.

Mirrored walls give every table a sea view at the oceanfront bistro Vitea, with creative dishes for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Fresh catch informs the menu.

Find Mexican classics like chiles en nogada and a tasty vegetarian menu at the bohemian Red Cabbage Cafe.

Outdoor Ventures

Golf at seven top area courses, three of which are Jack Nicklaus designs. nicklaus.com/design

Fly like a bird on a zip-line tour through the jungle and over the Mismaloya River. canopyeleden.com

Go whale-watching (peak period from mid-December through the end of March) to see humpback whales frolic in Banderas Bay. vallarta-adventures.com

Snorkel at two national marine preserves, Los Arcos (near Mismaloya beach) or the Marietas Islands, and you’ll see abundant coral and tropical fish — and perhaps dolphins, sea turtles, and giant manta rays. If you prefer to stay dry, boat tours of both are also rewarding. vallarta-adventures.com

See the jungle on a horseback ride. Guided tours range from a few hours to several days and depart from Rancho El Charro in rural Puerto Vallarta. ranchoelcharro.com

Learn to surf at Sayulita. With at least eight surfing schools, a consistent and gentle surf, and numerous freelance instructors, there’s little reason to remain a landlubber. Most hotel concierges in the area can set you up with one of the schools. sayulitalife.com

Getting There

US Airways flies directly to Puerto Vallarta from Phoenix and Charlotte.