La Penita, Mexico - It’s a seasonal debate: should I stay through Easter or leave before to return home north of the border to avoid the crowds?
Personally, I enjoy the vibrant atmosphere that the vacationing Mexican families bring to Jaltemba Bay. The two week period is a national event that includes Holy week, Semana Santa, and the week after Easter, Pascua, which is March 24th through April 6th this year.
This federal holiday from school enables thousands of families from all over Mexico to enjoy a trip to the beach. Fortunately, Mexico is experiencing a surge in growth of a middle class making the migration from the mountainous interior to the coastal areas more accessible to a larger segment of the population - a cause to celebrate!
The coastal area goes into party mode: exuberant children and adults fill the beaches to bursting, crowds dance along the clogged streets to strolling musicians and celebrate with fireworks, traditional foods and lots of beer! No one can out-do the Mexicans for enjoying life with simple impromptu fiestas for fun-in-the-sun. Strolling musicians entertain groups at the beach or for at home parties at night.
As with so many of its delightful customs, Mexico originally started Semana Santa as a solemn religious occasion from the Spanish liturgical calendar but added a spirited Mexican interpretation that celebrates spring and renewal.
You won't come across any mention of the Easter Bunny or town egg hunts on Easter Sunday, Domingo de Pascua, in Mexico. This is generally a day when people go to Mass and celebrate quietly with their family, though in some places there are festivities with fireworks.
The large family dinner is typically bar-b-que, barbacoa, with all members contributing a dish. It’s all about relaxing and having the time to catch up with each other’s lives; after all it’s a once a year occurrence.
While many parts of Mexico observe the holiday with passion plays and processions, the more secular west coast area is a feast of popular cuisine. Thirsty revelers guzzle aguas frescas - water flavored with local tropical fruits or coconut, most consume vast quantities of tequila and beer; and the barbacoa and ceviche tacos from the roving vendors are in high demand.
Holy week is the traditional start of Mexico’s ice cream season: pushcarts that are loaded with tubs of ice cream or the popular fresh fruit ice bars on a stick, called paletas, roam the beaches and village streets calling out "nievees." Vendors also sell snow cone-like shaved ices known as raspados. The dulces regionales, candies made from coconut, tamarind and other regional ingredients, are sold by industrious vendors trudging with wheelbarrows through the sand.
Let’s be honest here: we foreigners flock to the wondrous Mexican coast to enjoy the good life and beautiful climate every winter. Mexicans welcome us. Returning international seasonal residents and visitors have a tendency to think of Riviera Nayarit as ‘ours’; feeling a sense of entitlement to partake of all the benefits of the community.
Why would we - foreign guests in Mexico - complain when the Mexican people have an opportunity to enjoy their country? More traffic? Longer lines in stores? Hooray for the local merchants who need the income from this two-week period in order to survive during the summer months.
Planning ahead - make the run for items early in the day avoids the lines avoids the delays. Instead of complaining, take the time to people watch and appreciate the joy on the faces of the children. Relax, enjoy the Mexican music and seasonal foods. The time will fly by.