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 News from Around Banderas Bay | September 2007 
Hiking Through Puerto Vallarta's Jungles
 Owen Neill - PVNN
After spending the last few days on various beaches around PV, we were looking for some fresh water to swim in and an escape from the semi-crowded beaches. We were going jungle hiking to explore a side of the bay that sometimes can be forgotten by your average sun-seeking tourist.
Our day started out as always with a cinnamon coffee and some fresh sweet buns baked two doors down by Maria Lopez. The smell of her small bakery wafts up past our deck every morning. Just one more reason we love Mexico.
The plan was to head south to our first destination. We easily found the bus stop located in Old Town and boarded the southbound bus to Boca de Tomatlan, which also passes by Mismaloya.
Our first stop was only half-way to Mismaloya. We headed into the jungle very close to Garza Blanca, an upper scale housing development. The stream was shallow but the water was moving fast. The jungle can be very thick, so we stayed on track with the stream. I was told by an amigo that this river led to a series of seven waterfalls.
We arrived at the first swimming hole within an hour's walk from the highway. It was a true paradise. We could hear the waterfall from several minutes away and the anticipation built as we moved along the stream. A final turn, and there was the clearing, where a rock gorge 70 feet high nestled around thick jungle foliage and a large swimming hole. A real jungle pool, the water was quite cool, but in the middle of the jungle on a hot day, this was paradise.
After cooling off with a great swim, we continued on to the next waterfall. The trail got a little more difficult from here but it was a short distance to the next area. One of our crew had already forged ahead while we stopped for the swim. He reappeared on the top of the gorge in an attempt to get us moving by letting us know he could see the ocean from his viewpoint.
When we caught up with him, we discovered that this second clearing was much smaller than the first, but it had a spectacular view. After enjoying it for a while, we decided to head back to the highway and on to our next destination - Mismaloya. The bus arrived in short order, and we were down the road again.
El Eden was to be our next swimming spot, a local favorite and also the location where the Arnold Schwarzenegger (Governor Arnie) movie "Predator" was filmed. From the bus stop it’s a long, hot walk through town and up a jungle road to the restaurant on the edge of the Sierra Madre jungle. You could take a 15 minute taxi ride instead, but if you do decide to walk along the dusty road, the majestic beauty of this area provides many photo opportunities.
Once you arrive at El Eden, a large downward stairwell passes the remnants of the chopper that crashed in the movie. The palapa roof covering the restaurant is amazing, not only in size but also in workmanship, making for quite an entrance. As we continued through the main restaurant to the lower dining area we got our first look at the swimming hole. Wow, what a spot!
We ordered lunch, the house seafood platter - a feast to fill us all. But first a dip in that cool natural pool was needed. Some chose to wade in slowly, but due to the fact that there is a great rope swing right from the seating area, I chose this as my means of entry. Others chose to go down a rockslide that is really a mini waterfall at the mouth of the swimming hole. After an amazing lunch, we continued on our journey upriver, but we'll never forget this Indian paradise that is yet another jungle delight.
As we were leaving El Eden, I remembered that my amigo had also told me about another location just upstream a few hundred meters from the restaurant. We found a trail leading from the edge of the parking lot and followed it to a much larger swim area, which is obviously a local hangout.
Once again, jungle surrounded a perfect setting. Families enjoying a cool swim or setting up camp for an afternoon of fine company and food. I could have spent the rest of the day there, but we decided to press on to the last destination on our list - Chico’s Paradise.
After a quick taxi ride back to the highway, we were back on the trusty bus heading for Boca de Tomatlan, the last stop on the bus route. This is where we usually catch the water taxis to Yelapa, but today we were continuing on up the highway another five km for our last jungle swim of the day.
Chico's Restaurant itself is so impressive with large open sitting areas on several levels, all with a unobstructed view of the river and waterfall. Many local kids performed diving tricks from the rocks above the waterfall, which raised a gasp or two from the patrons.
A stairwell leads from the restaurant to a shallow area in the river where you can enjoy sunning on the rocks or a great swim. There is also a large area to explore around this wonderful location, so we spent a few hours checking it out, and stayed for dinner. I think they may have the best black bean soup I have ever eaten. Try it, you will not be disappointed.
As we were eating, a slight breeze flowed down the valley, causing the jungle to sway as if it were enjoying it. All of a sudden the bark started peeling off of a large arbutus tree on the far side of the river, creating a natural phenomenon few have witnessed - the burning bush effect.
This occurs when a combination of wind and sunlight make the tree's exfoliations look like a flicker of flame. When seen from a distance, you would swear that the tree was on fire. I assure you, it is quite a sight.
Normally we would have called a taxi to take us back to the bus stop, but the waiter hooked us up with a taxi for a great rate as he was heading home for the night back to PV. We arrived back to the Malecón just in time for our evening stroll, and of course our customary dessert of flan from the main plaza.
All-in-all, the entire day just added a lot more to the long list of things I love about Mexico. How many more reasons can there possibly be? I don't know, but I'll keep coming back, and keep counting the ways... and I hope you do too.
 Born in Castleblainey Ireland, Owen Neill is a Canadian businessman who lives in Edmonton Alberta with his wife Jacqueline and their five children. A frequent PV visitor with aspirations of moving to the Puerto Vallarta area soon, Owen loves to share his adventures with his family, friends and fans. Covering everything from the day trips he's taken to hidden destinations in the Banderas Bay area to the driving tours he's enjoyed, Owen's articles will give you a glimpse at a side of Puerto Vallarta that is often overlooked by the average sun-seeking tourist. |
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