| | |  Vallarta Living 
Vic Pittman: The Mexico We Have Found
 Vic Pittman - Salem-News.com
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February 22, 2010
| | The Port of San Blas, a beautiful haven of nature with beaches and picturesque sunsets, is one of the main cities in the Mexican state of Nayarit. (photos by PromoVision) | |
San Blas, Mexico - My wife Glenda and I live in the coastal town of San Blas in the state of Nayarit, Mexico about 1000 miles from the US border. This is not a Cancun or Cabo, this is the real deal, a Mexican fishing town relatively untouched by tourism.
In this town of about 9,000 people, there are maybe thirty "full-time" Gringos... maybe another two hundred that stay here during the winter, but have homes back in the US or Canada. We are definitely a minority here... this is a record of our experience here so far.
When we first announced our intentions to move "somewhere on the Pacific" in Mexico, our families were skeptical at first, then worried as they realized we were serious. "Havent you heard about all the beheadings?"
"There's no way I would live down there!"
"You need to reconsider that idea... it just is not safe!" were among the comments we heard from well-meaning friends and family.
Nevertheless, we were tired of struggling just to make our house payment, and after seeing a few of my friends pass away, who all had plans to "retire one of these days and relax," we decided to do something different. Our children are all grown and doing well so we were free to make the move.
The price of acting on impulse is that often you find yourself woefully unprepared. We came down here knowing virtually NO Spanish. It was like being a deaf-mute at first, but everyone was helpful and accommodating.
No one told us "If you are going to come to our country, learn the language, dammit!" (perhaps they did in Spanish and we just didn't understand them).
The primary concern our friends and families had about our move was crime. Many felt that just because we were white, we would be singled out and victimized. One person suggested "a really nice gated community of mostly Canadians" (white) by Puerto Vallarta that was "safe" and "even had guards!" (I'm guessing the guards are Mexicans, which would seem to defeat the purpose.)
That was not at all what we wanted, though. We wanted to be minorities and see if we could assimilate and become part of the community despite our "gringo-ness' and the fact that we stand out like the proverbial turds in the punchbowl, me with my height and shaved head (the latter seems to facinate kids to no end and has given me my nickname "Pelon", which means bald) and Glenda's mane of blonde hair and her many tattoos which caused one little girl to ask her mother if she were a "bruha" - a witch. (as in Glenda the Good Witch of El Norte).
One guy who I would not call a friend, but an acqaintance in Oregon told me "Be careful..Mexicans will steal anything they can get their hands on. They are lazy, and if they can get something by stealing it, they will."
Fortunately for us, the Mexicans here are evidently too lazy to even steal, because there has been every opportunity for someone to steal from us, and no one has. On top of our van, which is parked on the side of the road about 20 feet from our house, are almost always two fully equipped kayaks held on only by bungee cords.
These would bring an easy 3000 pesos each ( $250) in the next town down the road, but as I look out the window, I see they have survived yet another night in the mean streets of Mexico. Our carport is open... no garage door and our bicycles are there for the world to see...and we still have them.
When we ride them to the Mercado (market) we do not lock them up... no one else does either. In Guaymas, on the way down, we took some clothes to a "Lavanderia."
Unlike American laundromats, here you drop off your clothes and pick them up later clean and folded and the bill is less than it would cost at a coin-op.
This time, I accidentally left a 100 peso bill in my pocket, which would be around a day's wages for the worker there... it was promptly returned, upon which we gave her half. My wife feels absolutely safe walking into town in the evening alone and has not encountered disrespectful behavior. She gets whistles (which are not considered rude here, but a compliment) and smiles but has never felt threatened.
On our way down here we got a motel in Mexicali, one of the more dangerous border towns. I took a pocket knife and 200 pesos and purposely walked through some of the seedier areas of the town that night. Not once did I feel threatened and all I encountered were friendly greetings and vendors selling wonderful food.
Same thing in Hermosillo and Guaymas. Even carrying a six-pack of Tecate, I could not get robbed or even harassed. The biggest threat we have encountered here is the threat of overeating, especially in the evening when the air is filled with the smell of grilling meat, seafood, chicken and onions as the many food vendors crank up the grills.
Another very dangerous person here is Francisco, the guy who makes churros in the town plaza. Churros are a pastry which is made by deep frying long strands of dough then covering them in a sugar-cinnamon mix.
The smell is irresistible and goes for blocks in every direction. Much of my time during the day is spent at the docks painting and lettering boats. There are more boats than cars in this town by far and I have found steady employment painting names and pictures on them.
At least 80% of the people in this town make their living from some aspect of the seafood industry. A families prize possession is their boat, for it is their means of survival. The food here is incredible and cheap. Avocados are around twenty cents each, tomatos around ten cents... the fruit and vegetables are fresh and plentiful year-round.
Our fisherman friends keep us supplied with free or next to free Dorado, Bonita, Sierra (Mackerel) and other fish... usually caught that morning. A friend of mine told me "No one goes hungry in this town... as long as you don't mind fish."
The poorer people of the town help unload the boats in exchange for a fish or two... those who because of age or infirmity cannot help unload still get a fish. The people here are for the most part, poor by American standards.
Houses are smaller but usually paid for. Many houses hold two or three generations of family... as the family grows, additional stories are added on to the house. Everything here is concrete, due to the humidity. With the palm trees and jungle, it feels as if we are living in the Flintstone's town of Bedrock.
But the most vivid difference that we see here from Oregon is one that saddens us. People seem so much happier here. They have less materially, but have an appreciation and enjoyment of life, family, food and culture that I wish there were more of back in the US. Maybe rampant materialism and having the best and latest gadgets and cars really does not buy happiness.
Being in debt certainly did not buy us happiness... we have virtually nothing here, but are more relaxed and happier than we have been for some time. We work nearly every day... some days we make only $15-$20 US, but that is more than enough for us to live comfortably on.
There is a naval base here and a constant military presence, which would infuriate me in the US, but is somewhat comforting here. Why the difference? Mexico is not bombing, invading or trying to steal the resources of any other country the last time I checked.
No Afghan or Palestinian families have been blown to bits by Mexican rockets and Mexico does not export weapons all around the world nor does Mexico have military bases outside of Mexico.
I see no dishonor at all in a purely defensive military.(like the way America's is supposed to be) The main job of the Mexican military seems to be dealing with the drug cartels and smugglers.
No one here has a problem with that. It is not uncommon to see trucks with fully armed soldiers driving through town. The last time I got gas, there was a truck with three soldiers carrying machine guns in the back just parked there at the gas station keeping an eye on things.
Many of the soldiers are local boys and long time members of the community. The police carry machine guns too, but stay in the background and are there if needed, but are not aggressive. There is always an officer outside the bank.
The general attitude seems to be that if you do not start trouble, you get no trouble. There is a degree of corruption re the drug trade that I will not go into because, well... we live here. Marijuana is plentiful and cheap and almost universally used. Mexico has a "personal use" law which allows a person to have up to 5 grams on their person at any time.
We really believe that the scary Mexico hype is rooted in the fact that the US govt. does not want retiree Baby-boomers taking their meager Social security and retirement benefits and spending them down here where they would go much further. We rent a nearly new house, eat at least one meal a day out and live in comfort four blocks from a tropical (WARM) beach for around $15 US per day.
That is for both of us... all expenses included. I suppose if we came down here looking down our white noses at the natives and being arrogant and disrespectful and showing no interest in learning the language and customs we would not have such a good time, nor have made so many great friends.
People appreciate that we love their town and lifestyles and are only too happy to share with us a dish they have made or take the time to help us learn Spanish. The respect and acceptance we have been shown is humbling... almost embarrassing at times.
I wonder how many of these people realize that they would for the most part not experience anything close to this kind of hospitality on the other side of the border. And when I log on to Oregon news sites and read about the constant shootings, robberies, sex crimes, police killings and burglaries... it makes me want to ask my friends and family "Aren't you afraid to live up in the US ? Do you really think it is safe?" |
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