 |
|
|
 News from Around Banderas Bay | November 2005 
Visiting San Sebastian del Oeste
 Bob Cohen - PVNN
For a little over three years, I'd been intending to make the 64 kilometer drive up the mountain to San Sebastian - I just never got around to actually doing it. Though I'd heard a lot about this beautiful and serene town tucked away in a valley high in the Sierra Madres Mountains [elevation 4500 ft.], I'd also heard stories about how difficult it is to get to by car due to poor dirt roads, full of potholes and hairpin turns, that flood during the rainy season.
This past week I received a call from my friend Tina asking me if I wanted to go with her to San Sebastian, and since she has made the drive often, I had no excuse to say no. Little did I know [until ten minutes before we left] that we were going with another friend and it was to be a two-day trip, which meant I needed to bring my only sweatshirt, among a few other necessary items.
We left at 8:00 am, and the drive up the hill was surprisingly smooth. We took the brand-new road that will go directly to Guadalajara via Talpa and Mascota. It is almost completed, with just one stretch of construction still underway. There, we only had to wait for around 15 minutes while the road crew allowed oncoming traffic through the single lane before we were give the right-of-way.
I didn't mind the wait at all, as we were climbing higher into the mountains and the change of scenery was absolutely stunning. The mountains were green and full of splendor with dramatic views of the valleys below. The signage was basically good, but if one were to take a right turn instead of turning left, one could wind up heading to Talpa instead of arriving in San Sebastian.
Continuing on for the last few kilometers the terrain changed once again, greeting us with tall pine trees as the road from Puerto Vallarta brought us into the west side of this historic mining town. As we drove into town, we noticed that the architecture is much different than Puerto Vallarta.
Originally settled in the 16th century, this beautiful mountain village retains its colonial heritage with buildings and structures that have been standing for over 250 years. Arriving at the lovely town square, I had a feeling that I was in a different place and time. I could tell you it was bustling, but with a total population of 599 (one young woman I saw was pregnant), there were only a few people milling around.
Once a thriving gold and silver mining town populated with about 40,000 people, San Sebastian will be celebrating the 500th anniversary of the municipality this coming January. Actually the mines were basically responsible for the start of Puerto Vallarta, or Las Peñas as it was called then. Salt was brought up from the few huts in Las Peñas by mules to the mines and used in the smelting process. The silver and gold was shipped by mule to Guadalajara and Mexico City to Veracruz, where once a year it was shipped to Spain. Some mines are still there - but not active.
We stayed at a private hacienda, just three blocks from the main square, a magnificent two story, five bedroom house, with the three downstairs bedrooms completely separate from the two upstairs. Though the hacienda is located only three streets from the center of town, once again I felt like I was in another world. Silence and serenity... what a change from the hustle and bustle of Vallarta!
In the early afternoon, we walked into town and found some tourists that arrived on a jeep tour. There is also a small plane that makes the fifteen-minute flight from Puerto Vallarta daily. In my opinion, the downside of visiting San Sebastian on one of the tours is that they leave after only two hours, missing the magic of dusk and the enchanting evenings - an experience that should not be missed.
At dusk, it was time to put on the sweatshirt, and as the evening progressed the temperature got cold, close to 45 degrees of fresh clean air. We ate dinner in a lovely restaurant, that served traditional Mexican dishes and though we were the only people there, the food was exceptional.
After dinner, we spent a couple of hours in a lovely café, sipping the famous and delicious San Sebastian homegrown organic coffee and scrumptious postres as we listened to some wonderful music. At 11:00 pm, we made our way back to the hacienda using a much-needed flashlight.
After taking a wrong turn that led us down the wrong path; we finally arrived at the hacienda and sat out on the front porch and gazed at the millions of visible stars that flickered above a serene, peaceful and picturesque setting. An ample amount of blankets made falling asleep extremely comfortable. The next morning Tina gave us a walking tour and an overview of the history of this former mining town, which has changed so little in hundreds of years.
We left in the early afternoon - but it felt like I was gone for a week. For those that believe in a Higher Power, that power just might have a second home in San Sebastian. If you are planning to visit San Sebastian, I suggest that you bypass the day trip and spend a night to experience the culture of a small Mexican pueblo. |
| |
|
Vallarta Weddings
Tell a Friend
Site Map
Print this Page
Email Us